What lines the skirt? A carpet of copper flowers!

I had the pleasure of seeing the Guo Pei exhibition at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco while staying in the Bay Area in November. It truly was amazing! I kept saying “wow” out aloud. I can’t remember the last exhibition I saw when I overheard so many viewers talking about the designs and materials, conjecturing with strangers.

Guo Pei is a Chinese fashion designer who has led her own studio since 1997. In 2015, she achieved a new level of fame in the US after Rihanna appeared in a yellow gown at the Met Gala. Pei has 500 employees, over 300 of whom are embroiderers.

One collection she created while she was pregnant. It includes embroidery design details reminiscent of Spanish matador costumes. I loved all of the cut, layered, diaphanous sleeves and skirts.

Pei takes inspiration from various sources and historical periods for each of her collections. She has made several collections inspired by Chinese embroidery as well as European historical clothing.The placement of several dresses in the galleries with the museum’s permanent collection is partly what made the exhibition so dynamic. Seeing the following dress beneath a Spanish 15th-century ceiling was spectacular.

Closer view of the embroidery, synthetic opals, and Swarovksi crystals Pei uses in her work.

Pei combines metals, crystals, natural and synthetic fabrics, and resin to create outfits complete with crown-like hats, jewelry, and platform shoes. A special fabric was created for one collection with shaved mother of pearl.

Seeing her pieces challenges me to experiment with materials! How would I incorporate metal or other fibers, beads, or stones, for example, into my work? How might you?

It took 50,000 hours to embroider this dress!

Many of her collections are whimsical and fantastical.

If you are interested in trying Chinese embroidery techniques, like needle painting used in the dresses above, Margaret Lee’s The Art of Embroidery is a fantastic resource and tutorial.

I must’ve photographed nearly every piece in the exhibition! My favorite was this one from the L’Architecture collection, F/W 2018-19:

Did you see the show? What was your favorite? Please share in the comments.

Guo Pei at the Legion of Honor, San Francisco