Estonian Embroidery from Muhu Island

While Estonia is well-known for knitting it also carries a rich history of embroidery, including counted thread work and freestyle embroidery on decorative textiles, and both woven and knit clothing. One of the most vibrant traditions comes from Muhu Island.

Woman in late 1800s dress and
Woman in 1920s dress from Muhu Island (right).

Muhu Island is the third-largest Estonian island in the Baltic Sea. It once contained 52 villages over an 80 square mile area. Fewer than 2000 people live there today.

The style fully developed in the 1800s. With the men away fishing in the spring and summer, the women oversaw everything in the villages, farming and caring for their families. In winter, women aspired to create the most beautiful and skillfully stitched garments and heirloom textiles.

In the 1870s, orange dye arrived on Muhu. One theory holds that women brought the dye– most likely made from the Middle Eastern variety of the Brazilwood tree– from Sweden via rowboat (These women were tough!) while most people believe that Arab sailors traded it. With the establishment of the first Russian dye company in 1898, aniline dyes became available, leading to more vibrant colors.

Richly patterned, knit stockings and red-embroidered shirts developed in the late 1800s.

Socks stitched by two sisters in the early 20th century.

Even the shoes were embroidered. A well-worn and loved example.

Freestyle floral embroidery replaced cross stitch in the 20th century. Women then began working on the mainland. In the 1920s, yellow replaced orange as the predominant color in woven skirts. Floral embroidery on black fabric became popular. Feeling out of place in such bright colors while working on the mainland, women stopped wearing traditional dress daily between the First and Second World Wars.

The skirt color evolved from orange to yellow over a few eventful decades.

Floral embroidery style that began around 1910. Piece on the left is from 1930 and on the right, 1990.

You can find embroidery in nearly all elements of clothing and home textiles: hats, shirts, waistcoats, blouses, aprons, woven trims stitched on skirts, socks, shoes, large blankets given as wedding presents, and pillows.

Vests, jackets and aprons were made with crochet and embellished with embroidery.

Wedding blanket,1923.

These are just a few examples. I’ll be using a lot more pink and orange in my work now! And you?

Images and information from Meite Muhud Mustrid by Anu Kabur, Anu Pink, and Mai Meriste.