A Long Weekend in the Czech Republic

“To the King!” This year’s king on parade through Vlcnov.

A week ago I traveled to southern Moravia or Moravian Slovakia, known as Slovácko in Czech, for the Ride of the Kings festival. The original Ride of the Kings ranks among the oldest European folk customs and its uninterrupted tradition dates back to the year 1808; Napoleon Bonaparte had won the Battle of Austerlitz three years before and was in the process of preparing his campaign against Russia. However, the roots of this custom reach even deeper, as some of the pagan myths indicate. Several theories attempt to shed light upon the origin of the Ride of the Kings. The best known and most recent theory is associated with the Bohemian-Hungarian War. In 1469, The King of Bohemia, Jiří of Poděbrady, defeated his son-in-law, Hungarian King Matthias Corvinus, who, in order not to be recognized and captured, dressed up in a female folk costume, covered his face with ribbons and headed for his residence in Trenčín guarded by his company, who had to collect money from serfs to feed him. This version of the Ride of the Kings has been handed down for generations. (Source: vlcnov.cz)

At the festival, the dancers and singers were a highlight, showing off the most elaborate costumes and their artful skills. Vendors sold carved wood, some textiles, food, and local wine. There were a few textiles for sale, limited to machine-embroidered pieces and some printed cotton skirts and bags from the Czech resist-woodblock indigo tradition. I hope to return with more time to track down the remaining hand embroiderers and get to know the variations within the Slovácko region.

The traditional women’s dress of Vlcnov can cost over $6,000. Lace, tufted fringe, counted thread work, free embroidery, smocking, ribbons, and sequins embellish the dress giving it color, texture, and volume!

Wheat fields with poppies grow abundantly in the region and you can find them on the embroidered aprons.

Beautiful rolling hills with mustard, big skies, and gorgeous clouds.